Love to Grow

  • Pippa Greenwood: Haxnicks Gardening Tips for December

    December-tips-Composting-Sack-with-leaves So already time for my December tips!  Lets start with leaves.  They may have fallen several weeks ago.  You may have done your best to clear them up but they have an amazing ability to re-appear.  They dislodge themselves from stems, branches and ground level plants, behind the shed and all those other places they get blown into. So, leaf raking still very much the order of the day.  Or use a Leaf Picker to get in among those ground level plants and clear the lawn.

    As soon as you’ve collected up a decent number, make yourself some leafmould. the best leaf mould is made from oak, beech or hornbeam.  If the leaves are very leathery or evergreen they’re best avoided, but even those larger leaves with chunky veins will rot down well given the right conditions.

    One of the easiest ways to  speed up their conversion into lovely leafmould is to chop the leaves up first.  Either use a sharp spade or leave them on the lawn and then run over them with the mower.  This is a great way to do it.  Your grass box will be full of finely chopped leaves mixed with a bit of fresh, nitrogen rich grass, perfect!  Then simply collect them into a natural jute Composting Sack and place in a corner of the garden to mature.  In one year you will have a useful mulch for plants.  Or in 2 years you can use it for sowung seeds or mix with sharp sand to use as potting compost.

    Grab a bargain!

    Garden centres often have the remaining stock of their autumn-planting bulbs at reduced prices this month.  There can be some fantastic bargains to be had. True it is no longer the classic autumn-planting time, but I find I invariably get good results anyway. If your soil is far too cold or wet, no matter.  Just plant the bulbs into containers instead of open ground. These could be permanent pots or planters.  Or if you plant into bulb baskets or pond-planter baskets then you can then simply ‘plant’ these mesh-like planters into the ground in early spring as the foliage is emerging.

    Its nearly Chriiiiistmas!

    This year the chances are that you’ll be sending more Christmas gifts by post than you usually would. Gardening gifts make a perfect present.

    December-tips-bamboo-pots-with-christmas-decorationsThere are so many things to choose from – it could be small but useful thing like a packet of seeds popped inside a Christmas card.  A box of RootTrainers, again with some seeds or cloches, a raised bed kit, or for someone wanting to grow their own veg in 2021.  How about a gift of one of my ‘Grow Your Own with Pippa Greenwood’ gift voucher cards?  UK grown garden ready plants accompanied by weekly advice emails from me…its hard to go wrong!

    I hope you find these December tips useful and enjoy your time int eh garden.

  • Grow at Home: Making leaf mould (or free compost!)

    Leafmould is also known as Gardeners Gold and is an amazing soil conditioner. It is that glorious stuff you find on forest floors created from all the decaying leaves.  Generally it takes two years to make although you can use it slightly differently after only one (In case you are the impatient sort!)

     

    When to make leafmould

    The obvious time is Autumn / Fall when deciduous trees drop their leaves.  But if you have pine trees you will find that these drop their needles throughout the year, with more activity in spring, so gathering them will be ongoing.

    What leaves can be used?

    Any leaves, even pine needles, can be used as they all break down eventually into leafmould.  Some need more encouragement than others though.  Oak, beech or hornbeam make the best leafmould and break down with little assistance and produce an excellent quality product. So if you have any of these trees dropping leaves into your garden then you are on to a winner!

    The thicker and leatherier the leaves the more help they will need.  So leaves like horse and sweet chestnut, sycamore or walnut will break down easier if you shred them first before adding them to the leafmould pile.

    Evergreens leaves such as holly, cherry laurel and conifer hedge clippings need even more help.  These need to be shredded and will then benefit from the heat of an active compost heap to speed up the process.   Otherwise it will be 3 or more years before they start to decay sufficiently.

    If you have ericaceous plants like blueberries, heathers, rhododendrons or azaleas then you might want to make a separate leaf mould pile of pine needles.  The leafmould they produce will be acidic and perfect for your ericaceous plants.

    How to make leafmould

    Collect leaves when the weather is still and dry to avoid the wind undoing all your neat piles!  Start with the leaves in your own garden but you can also collect from public places too.  I'm sure the council will be more than happy of all the leaves suddenly disappear!  Beware of collecting from major thoroughfares as the leaves may pick up the pollution from the traffic.  So head to the back roads for cleaner leaves.

    lawn-mower-cutting-leaves-for-leafmouldThere are several ways to collect leaves.  You can rake them into piles or use a garden vacuum if you have one.  Or better still, for leaves on the lawn - mow them to chop them up.  You can then empty them from the grass box with a nice sprinkling of nitrogen rich grass to add to the mix.  If you have larger leathery leaves then you can either chop them up with a sharp spade or you can move them to the lawn and mow them too.

    Where to store the leaves

    Bin liners

    Many gardeners use bin liners stabbed with holes to store their leaves.  If you are doing this then place the leaves in the bag and moisten them then tie the bag loosely before storing.  You will want to put these unsightly lumps of black plastic behind the shed or somewhere out of sight.

    Compost sacks

    December-tips-Composting-Sack-with-leavesIf you are going to use the resulting leafmould for growing food or just want to reduce the amount of plastic you are using then using a natural, jute sack is a much better alternative.  Pack the leaves tightly into your Composting Sack and tie the top.  Then place the sacks at the back of a border or around the base of a tree for the winter.  The first benefit of this is that you will suppress weeds.  But also, the rain will wash the nitrogen out into the surrounding soil and feed your plants.

    Alternatively you could place your sacks on a raised bed over winter.  When it comes to Spring you will have a weed free bed and rotted organic matter that can be dug in to condition your soil.  There may be some larger leaves that haven't rotted and these can be removed and added to the compost pile.

    Wherever you put it, turn the sack every now and to aerate and moisten if you have a particularly dry spell  - both of these will speed up the decaying process.

    A Frame

    If you have a lots of trees, and enough room in your garden, then you can store leaves in a frame.  Make this from chicken wire and wooden stakes.  Build it in a sheltered part of the garden so the wind doesn't empty it every time we have a storm.  Then keep an eye on it as you would your compost heap and moisten occasionally if it seems dry.  One of the issues of doing it this way is that Leafmould heaps can become covered in weeds.  These might be spread when you use the leafmould so watch out for this.

    Uses of Leafmould

    2 Year Old Leafmould

    2 year old well-rotted leafmould can be used as seed-sowing compost.  Take out any bigger bits using an Easy Riddle Garden Sieve and your seedlings will love it.  Alternatively, if you want potting compost you can mix it equally with sharp sand, garden compost and soil and use it to pot your plants on.

    One Year old Leafmould

    Use as mulch, soil improver, autumn top-dressing for lawns, or winter covering for bare soil.

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  • Pippa Greenwood: Haxnicks Gardening Tips for November

    November-tips-sweetpeas-in-rootrainersDid you think that November tips would start with flowers?  Well it does - sweetpeas to be precise. What’s not to like about sweetpeas? Their fantastic colour, from delicate pastel to richest shades.  Their phenomenal perfume…and the fact that they’re well-loved by bees and easy to grow.  All this makes them one of my favourite annuals to raise from seed. The seed can be sown in spring but by sowing the seed now you should end up with sturdier, slightly earlier flowering plants.

    Take a bit of time choosing the seed you buy as there are subtle differences in frilliness of the petals and size of the blooms.  There can be really noticeable difference in the levels of perfume too.  It’s all down to personal preference, but do read the descriptions!

    I always sow the seed into RootTrainers as the combination of the channels in each cell and the root pruning effect always produces great, really well-developed root balls.  This makes it easy to transplant without disturbance and gives great establishment. Just make sure you keep the clear plastic lid on the top of the RootTrainers in place as mice do seem to be very fond of sweetpea seeds!

    Crop Rotation

    As you clear away the last of the remains of this year’s summer and early autumn crops from the veg plot or allotment, I thoroughly recommend taking a note pad and pencil with you. Too chilly for sketching BUT definitely worth making a note of what you grew where. Its all too easy to assume you’ll remember these details.  Then come the spring, all too easy to find yourself ever so slightly uncertain. I never carry out a classic, text book rotation plan on my plot.  However, I do avoid growing the same thing or something closely related on any one patch of ground next year. If you think you’ll not be able to find the notes when the time comes next year, just take a photo of your scribblings!

    Planting

    onion-sets-in-rootrianers-November-tipsIf the soil isn’t too wet in your garden or allotment then there’s still time to plant some onion sets or garlic. I grow my garlic on ridges of soil about 15cm tall.  This ensures that, even in a wet winter the developing crop doesn’t get too damp.  As soon as the onion sets or individual garlic cloves are in the ground I cover them with net tunnels.

    The whispy tops to the sets seem to be just too tempting for local birds who pull them out, then fling them onto the soil surface.  If you want to find out why they do this then check out our Exploring the Rhizosphere blog.    Whatever their reasons, its infuriating because you then have to keep re-planting them. But cover with the Easy Net Tunnel and the birds can’t cause grief.  Then once the onions and garlic are rooted you can remove the tunnel and put it to good use elsewhere.

    Hope you find these November tips helpful and enjoy your time in the garden.

  • Product Bite: Victorian Bell Cloches - plant protection

    What are Victorian Bell Cloches: 

    Victorian-bell-cloche-over-flowering-plantVictorian Bell Cloches are plastic cloches that cover individual plants and protect them from frost, heavy rain, harsh winds and pests.

    The cloches have adjustable air vents which offer temperature and humidity control so the plants don't overheat.  Remove the Victorian Cloches quickly and easily on warm days if required.

    What crop are they for:

    They are suitable for any plant that needs protection.  The Small is ideal for young plants & alpines and establishing early salad crops.  The Medium is good for newly planted herbs and vegetables.  And the Large is good for larger plants and overwintering tender plants.

    Where can I use them:

    They can be used anywhere in the garden.  If your garden in particularly exposed then the pegging holes mean that the cloche can be secured over the plants keeping pests, birds and animals at bay.

    They are great for warming the soil and starting off veg such as courgettes and squashes.  You can get up to 6 weeks extra growing season by covering the soil before you plant to bring the soil temperature up.  Then pop the cloche over the young plant and it will be kept warm and protected while it gets established.

    What's so special about it?

    The science of the cloche has been in place since Roman times. The curved shape of the bell means that the surface of the cloche stays at 90° to the direction of the sun all day long, achieving minimum reflection and maximum penetration of light. This has a dramatic effect on the plants as it creates the optimum growing environment.

    The material they are made from is A-Pet rather than PVC making them stronger and more durable. Importantly the manufacturing of Bell Cloches made from A-Pet is far less damaging to the health of factory workers and the environment.

    Find out more:

    See it in action: To see it in action head over to our YouTube channel Victorian Bell Cloche

    Related Blogs:  Read about it in use Grow at Home: Florence or Sweet Fennel or Grow at Home: Spring Onions

    Buy it Now:  See the full range here Victorian Bell Cloches

     

  • Beetroot Brownies The Easy Way

    Beetroot Brownie The Easy Way

    The beetroot is being harvested now and if you have done all the pickling you think you will need for the winter, maybe this Beetroot Brownie recipe will give you another option.  The beetroot adds a delicious moistness to the brownie.  Give it a go - you might surprise yourself.  Pop a few in a natural fibre jute Veg Sack and you can keep the beetroot fresh and make this recipe  for a few weeks.

    Ingredients

    beetroot-brownie-with-autumn-leaf500g grated beetroot

    150g dark chocolate in small pieces

    100g butter

    200g soft brown sugar

    3 eggs

    100g plain flour

    Method

    1. Turn oven on to 180℃.

    2. Wearing washing up gloves, grate the beetroot. Put into a pan with 1/2cm (1/4") water in the bottom, cook for 5 minutes until tender. Once its cooked drain it well.

    3. Put in the liquidiser while still hot. Add the dark chocolate and the butter, it should melt as whizzing.

    4. Add the sugar, eggs and flour and whiz for a minute until it is all mixed up.

    5. Pour into a flat buttered tin/dish.

    6. Bake in the oven for approximately 20-30 minutes until it feels spongy to touch. Let it cool in the tin.

    7. Serve either as a pudding with some ice cream or as a teatime treat.

  • Grow at home: Spring Bulbs

    Spring Bulbs are in the shops sooner each year but there is much debate about when you should plant them.  Some gardeners swear you have to wait until there has been a frost.  Others say you must expose the bulb to the cold for a spell or even wait until the ground is hard.

    It is it is important to understand the life cycle of a bulb though to see the best time for planting.

    Winter

    Bulbs are mainly dormant during winter. Doing virtually nothing while the temperature is low and the conditions unfavourable for growth.

    Something is happening though.  Most spring bulbs need a certain amount of cool weather in order to initiate flowering which is generally not a problem in the UK.  The temperature needed varies between different flowers which explains why some years you may have stunning tulips (need a lower temp) and mediocre daffodils. If you aren't in the UK and live in an area with higher temperatures you can purchase pre-chilled bulbs that have been exposed to the cold.  These will ensure flowering without the cold spell.

    Spring

    In Spring the energy stored in the bulb is used to grow leaves.  These start to photosynthesize to replenish the food used for early spring growth and to provide energy to produce flowers and ultimately seeds.

    Spring_bulbs_daffodilSummer 

    By mid-summer the plant has finished its above ground growth.  The leaves begin to die back. What is less well known is that below ground the roots die back too and stop working. The plant isn't actively growing so doesn't need roots at this stage.

    Autumn

    Towards the end of summer conditions trigger the bulb to start growing roots again. Once the roots are functioning and accessing water and nutrients the bulb then starts to grow leaves and flowers. These grow until they are just below the surface of the soil. You'll see this if you accidentally dig up a bulb (or deliberately dig one up to see now that you are curious!!)

    The reason for this is when you are a bulb, Spring is your time to shine.  Temperatures are cool and light is scarce so you have to get on with it.  You have to produce leaves, flowers and seeds before shrubs, trees and other plants eclipse you and steal your sunlight.  Doing as much of your growing as you can in Autumn makes sense.

    This all stops when it get really cold, and the bulb goes into its dormant state again.

    Reasons to Plant Late

    I have searched and can find little reasoning for planting late other than "this is what I have always done, and George* on the next plot told me to so it must be true" (*insert name of the person on your plot who knows everything!)

    I think that the idea of giving the bulbs some exposure to the cold comes from the fact that tulips and other bulbs will not flower in warm climates. They do need a chill period during winter to flower. Knowing this, you can see why people might think that it is best to plant after a frost.

    Another explanation is that early planting will expose them to too much warm weather during late Summer, resulting in early growth that will be harmed by frosts. This explanation makes no sense when you consider the bulbs planted in past years don't seem to suffer from this problem.

    Reasons to Plant Early

    The logic of planting later or after frost etc is blown out of the water by the fact that those bulbs already in the ground are producing roots.  It is common sense that a plant is only as good as its root system as this provides the water and nutrients the plant needs to thrive.

    So if bulbs start to produce roots from late August there is a strong case that this is the time to start planting new bulbs. This will allow them to become well established before the dormant stage is reached.

    How to Plant Spring Bulbs

    1. Make sure you have healthy bulbs - they should be firm and plump, not withered or spongy.  Watch out for signs of mould too and discard any mouldy ones.
    2. Choose the right location - most bulbs (except some woodland varieties) need full sun and good drainage. Remember that the trees won't have leaves when the bulbs flower so utilise these areas too.
    3. Bulbs look best in clumps or drifts. So to get a natural looking display, plant several bulbs together.  Or if you are feeling adventurous, throw the bulbs into the air then dig holes and plant wherever they fall.
    4. Plant bulbs to a depth of about three times their diameter.  If you have a problem with pests like squirrels or blackbirds digging up your bulbs then plant them into Rootrainers and then transfer once the roots are stronger and harder for the pests to pull out.
    5. Replace the soil after planting and water the bulbs to help them establish.

    Lasagna planting for Spring Bulbs

    If you want to have a continuous display then give lasagna planting a go.  This is basically planting different bulbs at different levels so that you get a continuous display of flowers throughout spring.

    Planting depth is determined by the size of the bulb.  Plant the latest flowering (which are generally the largest) first.

    It can be done either in pots or in the garden itself.

    Lasagna Planting in Pots

    Layering Spring Bulbs Pots from Haxnicks

    1. Choose your bulbs.  Ones to consider include: Daffodils, Tulips, Crocus, Snowdrops, Hyacinth, Muscari, Dwarf Iris and Allium.  All have different flowering times.  Even different daffodils or tulips have different bloom times so you could stick to one flower type.  Whatever flowers you choose, consider that their flowering times may overlap so they need to look good together and select ones that bloom at different times to make sure your have a continuous display.
    2. Put some gravel in the bottom of your pot and add 8-10cm (3-4") of compost.
    3. Start with your largest bulbs. - place in a ring around the pot.
    4. Add another 8-10cm (3-4") of compost and continue layering up like this until the pot is full then water well.
    5. You may then want to plant some bedding plans such as cyclamen on top for winter colour while you wait for your lasagna to cook!

    To achieve this effect in the garden just follow the same process starting with a fairly deep hole and filling in as you go.

    You should have a Spring full of lovely flowers and the pollinators will love you for it!

     

  • Product Bite: Green Fern Fleece Jackets

    Green_fern_fleece_jacket_on_large_potted_plantWhat are Green Fern Fleece Jackets: 

    Easy Fleece Jackets are little jackets you pull over your plants to keep them warm in winter.  They are quick and easy to use and give plants instant protection from frost and other harsh weather. The soft fern pattern looks great in the garden and is a subtle way to protect tender plants.

    What crop are they for: 

    The Jackets are for protecting any tender plants that could not normally safely overwinter outside.  They are especially good for large, exotic & tender container plants, palms, cordylines, banana trees, citrus trees, tree ferns, magnolias, small/new camellias, bougainvillea.  Three sizes are available - small, medium and large to most plants.

    The material they are made from is high-grade 35gsm polypropylene fleece.  This will let through light and moisture maintaining healthy growing conditions to keep your plant in tip top condition.

    Where can I use them:

    Anywhere in the garden or in a draughty conservatory to protect exotic plants.

    What's so special about it?

    The jackets are simple to fit.  Just slide over the plant and secured with the integral drawstring around the base.  They can be easily removed on nicer days to allow the plant to get more air and light.  Then the jacket can be refitted before nightfall to protect from overnight frosts.  The alternative is using layers of lose fleece.  This is much harder to handle and can have gaps that let the cold in and may damage or kill the plant.

    The Green Fern Fleece Jackets can even be doubled up to combat really cold spells or look after plants in very exposed areas.  Using two Easy Fleece Jackets, one over the other can help protect plants from much lower temperatures as it creates an insulating layer.

    Find out more:

    See it in action: To see it in action head over to our YouTube channel and watch our Frost Protection video. 

    Related Blogs:  Read about it in use Grow at Home: Winter Plant Protection

    Buy it Now:  See the full range here Green Fern Fleece - Small

     

  • Pippa Greenwood: Haxnicks Gardening Tips for October

    The weather’s so different this month and October temperatures, especially at night, are sometimes damagingly low for some plants.

    October Tasks

    Fleece_on_potted_plant_outsideIt is worth giving the plants a bit of protection if you have any remaining peppers, chillies, aubergines or even tomatoes outside in your veg plot or allotment, or maybe even in a container on your terrace or patio. Cover them with a single layer of well-pegged down fleece rather than using polythene though.  The fleece will allow some air movement and dramatically reduce the risk of diseases such as grey mould getting a hold. If you want the easiest option, use Easy-Fleece Jackets. These are easily popped over individual plants, then held in place with the toggled drawstring. This makes them easy to remove on warmer days too.

    Tomatoes

    If your tomatoes have come to an end and the plants not worth keeping, it can be frustrating if they’re still bearing fruits that are not fully ripened. All very well if you like green tomato chutney (do you actually know anyone who does?!) But many fruits like this can still be saved. As long as they are perfectly healthy (no signs of gingery brown discolouration due to blight.  No wounds from slugs etc,) Then it is worth trying to ripen them off the plant. All you need is an over-ripe banana or two.  If it is freckly, so much the better. And then just put the unripe tomatoes in a fruit bowl (or paper bag) with the bananas. It is a magical trick – the bananas give off ethylene gas, a brilliant ripening agent and your tomatoes should be stimulated into turning red and ripening.  For more ways to ripen them check out this blog Grow at Home: how to ripen Green Tomatoes

    Lawns

    October_lawns_leatherjacketsMoth-eaten looking lawns have been a real problem this year.  I’ve had numerous reports of garden wildlife such as badgers, foxes, crows and magpies digging up patches in lawns.  They cause a real mess. Quite often it is the family’s pet dog who does this too (or in my case our cats, though this is less usual!) But don’t blame these animals.  They’re not the real root of the problem – their excavations are simply because they’re looking for tasty grubs.  Often leatherjackets, the larvae of the daddy-long-legs. The best method of control is using a nematode drench.  Its safe for wildlife, pets and humans and as long as you get your skates on, applying it this month is well worthwhile!

  • Grow at Home: Spring Onions or Scallions

    Spring_onion_bunch_red_bulbsThe world wide popularity of Spring onions is obvious from the number of names they go by including:

    Scallions, green onions, spring onions, salad onions, shallots (Australia), eschallots,  Japanese or Welsh bunching onions (these grow in clumps rather than singly), green onions (China) and Egyptian or tree onions. green shallots, onion sticks, syboes or jibbons (the one I grew up with)

    They have to be one of the most versatile members of the onion family.  Use them in your salads, as a garnish to soups and sandwiches or sizzle them in stir-fries.

    Sowing

    Spring onions do not have very deep roots so can be sown either in the ground or in a Raised Bed  or Shallow Vegetable Planter.  So they might be a nice thing to have growing in a sheltered spot just outside your back door.  

    Spring/ Summer sowing

    Sow thinly 1cm (½in) deep from March to September in rows 10cm (4in) apart. It is best to sow a few seeds every 2 weeks to give you a regular summer harvest.  Thin until they are about 2.5cm (1in) apart and use thinnings to add flavour to your meals.  Water if the soil or weather is dry.  Also, mulch to maintain soil moisture and keep the soil weed free so your seedlings don't have to compete.

    They will take around 8 weeks to grow to maturity.

    Autumn Sowing

    spring_onions_cutWinter hardy varieties are available.  You can sow these from August to October.  Ones planted later in the season may take longer than 8 weeks to mature depending on the temperature.  If you are impatient to eat them then keep them warmer by using a greenhouse, Bell Cloche, Easy-Tunnel or a Grower Frame.  Wherever you grow them, you can enjoy some young shoots during winter and leave the remainder to mature.  The main crop will overwinter nicely and be ready in Spring.

    Pests & Diseases

    Onion white rot:

    This is a soil-borne fungus that rots the roots and bulb under the soil.  The first you will know of it is yellowing leaves and wilting of the foliage above ground.  A white fluffy fungus appears on the bulb and it later becomes covered in small, round black structures.

    There is no chemical cure for onion white rot once it is in the soil.  It lasts for years and can't be eradicated.  However it will remain dormant in the soil unless a member of the onion family is planted there so the only solution is not to grow onions there again.

    Clear all the plants as soon as you spot the disease.  Dispose of them by burning or putting in your household waste.  Do not compost!  Also clean all tools used as it is transported in contaminated soil.  Be careful to clean footwear too so you don't contaminate other areas of the garden or worse still a neighbours plot.

    Onion downy mildew:

    This is a fungal disease that damages foliage and bulbs, resulting in poor yields. It is a particular associated with damp conditions.

    If you spot it, remove any infected leaves.  Thin and weed regularly to space plants correctly so that air can circulate around them and they have plenty of light.   Also, avoid overhead watering if possible.

    Harvesting Spring Onions

    Pull the spring onions when the plants are, around 15cm (6in) tall and the bulb is no more than 1-2.5cm (½-1in) across.

    You might want to leave a few to go to seed as a treat for the bees and to get free seeds for next year.  Collect the seeds by snipping off the flower head and storing in a paper bag for a couple of weeks until dried.  Then shake the seed head into the bag and store in a cool dark place until you are ready to sow again.

  • Product Bites: Vegetable Sacks for storing your root veg

    What is/are Vegetable Sacks:

    storing_vegetables_potatoes_in_jute_sackVegetable Sacks are veg storage bags made from 100% biodegradable vegetable fibres.  They are indispensable to keep home grown veg in peak condition until you are ready to eat it.

    The tough, woven fabric makes the best possible storage material for root vegetables.  It allows air to circulate so condensation doesn't build up inside. Vegetables are kept cool, dark and dry.

    What crop are they for:

    Ideal for all root vegetables - especially potatoes, carrots, parsnips, turnips, swedes and beetroot. You can also store onions (in a separate bag to the other veg)

    Where can I use them:

    Keep them in a cupboard or hang the bags somewhere cool dark and dry if possible to allow air to circulate.  The shed or garage would be perfect provided it is relatively pest free.  Check every now and then to make sure that there are no issues.  Remove and use any veg that are not looking their best straight away.

    What's so special about it?

    The natural fabric allows air to circulate meaning that the crop isn't ruined by condensation.  They are also reusable year after year and compostable once you have eventually finished with them.

    Find out more: 

    Related Blogs:  Read about it in use Grow at Home Shallots

    Buy it Now:  See the full range here Vegetable Sacks

    See more: Haxnicks has a great YouTube Channel where you can pick up all sort of tips and tricks and see the prodcuts in action.  Check it out here YouTube

     

     

     

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